my method of applying decals using Future....

Firstly, yes I'm a fan of Future buit not in the convetional way of applying one or more coats to the whole model, I think it unnecessary!

Method:

Once the model is finished in the chosen scheme and ready for decal application, thisis the route/method I take.

Tools:
Shallow dish or saucer and a sheet of kitchen towel folded to fit the dish/saucer.
Scissors for cutting the decal images from the sheet.
Cotton buds for rolling outhe trapped air/waterfromthe deacls.
2 Nylon/Taklon paint brushed number 2 and 6.
Pair of tweezers
Hot water added to the dish/saucer.
Bottle of Future or a small dish with 30ml of Future.

Boil the kettle and add sufficent hot water to the dish to saturate the kitchen towel, drain off the excess but allow a little to settle in the paper towel.

Select the images you wish to start with and cut these from the decal sheet and lay this onto the wetted paper towel and allow the backing paper to become wetted through sufficiently to allow the decal to move easily. Once wetted through move the decal on it's backing paper up the the rim of the dish/saucer. Several seperate decal images can be wetting at the same time to allow continuous application.
Using the number 6 brush dip this into the Future and apply a small amount to the surface of the model in the place where the decal is to be placed.
Using the tweezers lift the decal on it's backing sheet and align it in position using the number two brush slide the decal image over the Future and into position. Ensure the image is correctly positioned. Wet one end of a cotton bud and gentley roll it across the decal image to push out and trapped air or excess Future ensuring not to disturb the decal. Mop up any excess Future from around the decal whilst still wet.

If the decal is over a panel line or other deatil then add a drop or two or Micro-Set decal softener, this will ensure the decal is 'pulled' down into the panel line.

Once the whole decalling procedure is compleated and dryed, gently wash the model with a cotton ball soaked in a very mild solution of warm/tepid water and dishwash liquid. Then wipe the whole model again with clean water and allow to dry. The model is then ready for either a matt or gloss coat of your chosed clearcoat.

The above is not my method but one I have adapted for my own use and works very successfully.

Happy and sucessful decalling

Hiya Colin

Very nice, concise and to the point article.
Well written.

Two Questions
-Where can you buy Future? Whats the Equivalent?
- Im not 100% clued on the use of Future. What is the benefit over using the Microsol two part jobbie

Steve

Hi Steve, for local Future read Johnson's Clear, it says Future on the bottle in small letters, you'll find it in P&.g

Go onto any of the aircraft modellign site and you'll find lots of article re it's uses. The Yanks swear by it but I'm not that crazy as to it's all over use. The idea is once you have finished your model normally an aircraft is to give it lashiongs of Future to give a gloss finish then apply the decals and it negates silvering the shadowy silveryness you get from applying deacls toa matt finish. The once the decals have been appplied you finish with your choice of clear coat matt or gloss.

But if like me you sometimes model modern US NAVY the upper surfaces are/were matt Gull Grey, whilst the underside is gloss White. Now if you shot future all over to aid decal application you now have to mask the whole model to shoot matt upper surfasces and gloss underside. Seems a little pointless. Then if we take it a step further the markings are painted in gloss so you now have to apply gloss to the markings, more masking. Using my method all that is superfuluace. Th eonly drawback is the visability of the decal carrier film. Th emajority of which can be trimmed away with carefull use of fine sharp scissors or brand new scalpel blade.

Micro-Set and Micro-Sol are decal wetting and softening agents. The set is applied to the surface of the model and acts to help adhesion. The Sol as it says is a solvent basically acetic acid- vinegar! It's purpose is to soften the decals so they conform to the surface/detail of the model.

It can also be used to restore the gloss on canopies.

Hot water in a cotton ball has the same effect as does a hair dryer, the latter I have never used for obvious reasons!

ahhhhhh
See, told you I wasnt a wingy thing man.

I had the completely wrong end of the stick!
Ok, I understand now, and get the point... I shall dash out to the shops and try some future out on the bike decals this weekend.

Thanks Colin

Steve

Hi Steve, Glad to be of help, if we can get you target makers out of the mud then all well and good!!!!

Have a good weekend.

junglie wrote:

Hi Steve, Glad to be of help, if we can get you target makers out of the mud then all well and good!!!!

Have a good weekend.

Target makers..... well!